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Powell River Eldred Valley Climbing

Getting There

Access to the Eldred is via an active logging road that any high clearance 2 wheel drive vehicle will have no trouble with.  From the Westview ferry, turn right onto Marine Drive / Hwy. 101. Drive south for about 15 km and turn left onto Dixon Road.  Continue with the directions below.  From the Saltery Bay ferry, continue north on Hwy. 101 for about 12 km and turn right onto Dixon Road.

 

Continue with the directions below.

Drive up Dixon Road to the 4-way intersection. Keep left onto Goat Lake Main one way loop to 9 mile. Continue left on the Goat Lake Main all the way to 34 mile (yes, miles :).  Don’t get sucked off at 12 mile where the Spring Lake Main connects to Goat Lake Main, or at the Rainbow Main at 23 mile. Keep to the right at both of these junctions.

When returning to town, you will continue straight on the Tin Hat Junction at 9 mile to the Stillwater Main at 8 mile and continue on the one way loop to 4 mile.  There you can turn right and get back on Dixon Road, or continue straight through all the way to Hwy. 101 where you will be south of Dixon Road..

WARNING:   Active logging traffic on Mainlines.  Public hours are strictly from 6 pm to 5 am on weekdays, with open traffic at all times on weekends and holidays.  DO NOT  travel mainlines during active working hours, unless you have a radio, DO NOT rely on a hand held radio as they do not have enough reach. For up to date road information look at  Western Forest Products  Powell River Road Information Web page  http://www.wfproadinfo.com/powell-river.html

Take this warning seriously! do not attempt to access the Eldred Valley during working hours! The off highway trucks take up the entire road.

The Standard Eldred Rack

  • Locals have fine-tuned the Eldred rack and we recommend the following gear.

  • 2 ropes of 60m.  This is a must! One can be a tag line but all walls require 2 ropes to rappel off.

  • 2 full sets of TCUs, or equivalent.

  • 2 sets of Cams to 2”

  • Single cams 3”, 4”, 5”

  • Single set of wired nuts 8mm-25mm.

  • A 5m cordelette or more.  Not only great for anchors but may be essential for rigging.

  • 8-10 or so standard tape slings.  Essential for reducing rope drag over long pitches, so don’t skimp.

  • 12-15 quick draws.

  • A wire brush and a pair of clippers or machete are highly suggested.

The choice of protection devices and gear available is very wide and all climbers will develop their own rack of favorite gear.  The above list is what should be taken to  the Eldred Valley.  It’s a LONG way back to retrieve forgotten gear.  For extra gear information see the route description.  Competence at assessing and placing protection, setting up belays and good rope handling are fundamental life preserving skills for the climber and should never be underestimated.

Rescue;  There isn’t any

The Eldred Valley is cut off from cell service so you must take responsibility for your own safety and rescue.  There is cell service at 6 mile on the logging road.  For climbers equipped with a VHF radio programmed with the local road frequencies, it’s possible to radio logging contractors working in the area for help during the weekdays.  Powell River Taxi also monitors the Stillwater repeater radio channel 24/7. 

Eldred History

Rock climbing has quietly prospered in the Powell River region since the early 1980's.  The 900 m West Main Wall saw the completion of its first route in 1993, The Mainline an 18 pitch grade VI.

 

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