Eldred Valley Rock
To get to the base of the wall requires a bit of effort, although it's infinitely worth it. Ignore the pink trail line in this photo, the new trail is described here and comes from the left. From the Colin Arthur Dionne Climbers Camp, Drive up the Goat Lake Mainline to the end. You will find a parking landing on the right,(aprox 45 mile). There is a Quad trail that will take you to the bridge across the river. Just on the far side of the river, you'll find the trail on your right, it is not well worn or well marked. The route basically follows the SW ridge to a bench that takes you across the base of the wall. The approach takes proximately 4 hrs and requires route finding ability.
1. The Mormegil 5.10 C1***
(f/a MH,KC,RR,EG)11 pitches
After you cross the main drainage you will re-enter the forest, follow the flagged path for about 50m. You will see pink flagging tape heading up left towards the rock face Camp Radagast is found just above the path. Continue up the steep trail to the base of the wall (5-10 min hike). A series of tent platforms have been dug into the slopes.
(P1) The Canadian Classic Pitch climb up the obvious gear eating corner. The pitch gets increasingly steeper & more difficult the higher you get (5.10+35m).(Alternate first pitch see pg. 150) (P2) Climb up & right onto the ledge above. Off of the ledge jam your way up the double crack feature to a rest. Continue up the slot to gain Gecko Ledge. (5.9, 25m) (P3) Start just left of the anchor in a thin crack, with a horned dyke running parallel to its left. A couple hard moves followed by some slammer jams, leads you to a ledge with a bolt. Clip the bolt & traverse out right, a long move to the right gains a hand crack. Climb the crack until you are just below the shrubs. A good hold out left allows you to set up for a long move out left into a short vertical crack. Place a piece of gear in this crack, then traverse out left on the featured face & into the corner system. Climb up the wide corner to the bolted belay ledge (a very adventurous pitch (5.10+, 30m)). This pitch was originally done as one 60 m pitch. This station was mainly added to avoid a rappelling nightmare! Be very aware of the possibility of rapping over the massive ceiling & "Into The Void" while rapping the route!!! (P4) Climb the Jenga Chimney system, make your way up stacked blocks to a little bulge in the chimney, stem your way up through the bulge & to the bolted anchor (5.9, 30m) (P5) Continue up the corner into a short burly off width. Climb the off width then continue up to the little ceiling over lap above ( death block up out left, make note of it so you can avoid it on the rappel). This is where the bolt ladder starts. A stick clip is recommended for anyone without freakishly long arms. A bolt kit would also be a god sent here. Another bolt needs to be added above the highest bolt. This will make the pendulum out left less deterring. From the highest bolt pendulum out left to a crack, then climb up to the anchor( 5.10, C1 ). (P6) Climb the crack above to the ceiling, mantle the ceiling then head up the grove past a couple bolts to the next anchor (5.10).(P7) Climb the slab above to The Petty Dwarf crossing. Yard your way through cedars to get to the rock face, follow the face up & way out left to where the big ledge opens up. (P8) On the far left of the P.D.C. head up the bushy corner (alt. stay on clean unprotected face) & out on to the nicely featured slab. Climb up the obvious left-facing dihedral to the bolted belay (5.7, 30 or 35m) (P9) Face climb out left past two well-spaced bolts (5.7) and up the beautiful flake. A reachy move takes you to the next ledge system with a tree belay (5.9, 40m) (P10) Head up easy, unprotected groove. Gear belay (5.6 R, 30 m) (P11) A 3rd class goat highway brings you to the summit of Amon-Rudh ( take a mental note of where you are here, this part can get confusing to back track on your way down).Continue up to the true summit. No that is not a mirage, it is a magnificent tarn before your eyes. Fill your water jugs then dunk your ass in as you take in the first incredible view!
Decent: Rappel the route while being mindful of the big arching ceiling as you approach it on your rappel!
Gear: Two 60 meter ropes. A double rack of cams up to # 4, a set of stoppers, 12 alpine slings. Some duck tape & a knife to make a stick clip( grab a branch in the forest).
2. On the Virg: 5.10- ( f/a: Colin Dionne, Chris Wild, Aaron Black, Victor Ting.) 10 pitches
Hike to the far right of the wall and start on the left side of the big pillar. There's a great camping spot right at the base of the route and water may be found at the far right gully past On the Virg even at dry times of the year.
(P1) Climb the obvious crack feature to a clean ledge 2 bolts 50m. (P2) Climb past the first bushy ledge into the blocky corner, continue up the chimney, belay on the right on a small ledge 2 bolts 60 m
(P3)Continue up the chimney past a large clean ledge to a semi hanging belay 2 bolts 55m. (P4) Continue up the chimney to the top of the pillar 2 bolts 50m (P5) Above the anchors you have 2 choices, climb the slab past 2 bolts to the anchor 5.10-, or climb the dihedral to a point where you can climb across the slab to the anchor 5.8 (PG across to the anchor) (P6) Continue up the slab past 5 bolts then right along a dyke to a belay ledge 2 bolts 50m. This is a good spot to eat lunch. (P7) Move the belay to the left up the ramp 2 bolts 40m. (P8) Continue to the left around the corner and past a bolt to a ledge on the left 2 bolts 55m. (P9) Two options here, from the belay you can climb the grassy right leaning crack to the anchor 5.7 (watch for loose rock) or above the belay go right and climb the shallow left facing dihedral past 3 bolts to the anchor 5.10- 2 bolt hanging belay 45m (P10) Continue up past the cedar shrubs to a treed ledge. Belay off a tree 50m.
Decent: Rap the route. Don't skip any anchors.
Gear: 2 – 60m ropes standard Rack to 3” draws and slings. 1 bolt hanger, 2 9/16th nuts and a wrench are good back up.
Notes: When you hike to the top of the formation, remember to mark or note the spot you left the trees or it's hard to find on the way down to the ledge at the top of the route. There's a large tarn of water on the top and the view is fantastic!! So it's worth the hike.
