Higgyland

This sweet little sport crag right in the middle of town has quite a bit to offer, it's the most convenient and heavily used climbing area in Powell River. This fun crag offers some of the pumpiest routes in town, from near vertical crimpfests to overhanging test pieces'. There’s about 40 climbs in the area and room for more. A lot of the climbs are top-rope only, this is slowly changing as more routes are being bolted. There have been issues with people getting a little to bolt-happy in the past so before you spend $50 on a route just to get your bolts chopped please get in touch.

Higgyland does have Access Issues. The bluffs are on private land that the current land owner at this time has no complaints about the climbers. Please help local climbers keep it that way!! check out the access issues for this crag HERE.

Getting There

follow it north for 6 km through 2 stop signs. (At the first stop sign

you are close to the Powell River Brewery; turn left for great local

beer.) Turn right at the second stop sign and follow Arbutus Ave. across the Powell River Bridge. Turn right immediately after the bridge and drive past the Shinglemill Pub to the back of the gravel parking area and into the dirt lane.

From the Saltery Bay ferry terminal, follow Hwy.. 101 north into

Powell River. Hwy. 101 becomes Marine Drive when it enters the City limits. Continue on Marine Drive and follow the directions above.

Several trails begin from the parking area. The obvious Sunshine Coast Trail (S.C.T.) and the Climbers Trail. The S.C.T. heads past the

big boulder in the parking area uphill along the fringe of trees, a quick way to access the Frayed End at the top of the hill. Near the top of the hill turn right on a small trail that runs along the base of the Pepsi Wall to the base of Rippin’. The Climbers’ Trail is a rough track that leaves the back of the parking and heads straight for the wall to the Destruction Zone; it leaves the back end of the parking area and takes you to the base of Float Your Boat.

The Destruction Zone

Redman Wall

To get to the top of the wall, head

down toward the water until you

see an easy way up onto the bluff.

Head up the mossy bluffs close to

the edge.

1. Red Man 5.10 (f/tr CR)

Climbs the Ocher red streak. This

one suffers from wetness and

neglect but when clean and dry is

a stellar problem.

2. Roof Route 5.10 *** (f/tr CR)

Climb the cool hand crack up

through the cool triangular

roof. Finish with some fun face

climbing to the right of the dirty

crack.

3. Stranger In Higgyland 5.9+ (f/l RR)

Climbs the steep wall to the

right of Fuck I Luv It. Start low,

gain the horizontal and follow

indistinct cracks to a shallow left

facing dihedral.

Destruction Zone

4. Fuck-I-Luv-It 5.10c (f/tr CR f/l CAD)

Same start as Gotta Like It.

Head straight up through a

straightforward crux to some

easier climbing to the top.

5. Gotta Like It 5.9 ** (f/tr CR f/l CAD)

Follow the more obvious crack/

rail feature. The crux is tricky,

with very poor friction slopers.

Climbs slightly over-hanging

edges to the shared anchor

6. Float your Boat 5.10d*** (f/a CAD)

Starts in the middle of the

featured face at the bottom of

the Destruction Zone. Climb the

featured face through the roof

then right to the anchor ledge

7. Cheeky 5.8 (tr) (f/tr CR)

Startup Bumcrack then climb the

arête on the right.

8. Bumcrack 5.8 **(f/tr CR)

Follow the obvious wide groovy

to the anchors on the right, a fun

stemming problem.

9. Knobulation 5.10 ***(f/l RR)

Climb the left edge of the

Bumcrack groove, mid-way up

go through the small roof onto

some balancey moves, then left

to the anchors.

10. Knobulator 5.9 **(f/l RR)

Climb the center of the face

starting on a small ledge. Shares

the anchor with Knobulator.

11. Appetite for Destruction

2p 5.10 ***(f/tr CR f/l RR)

Start on the stump and climb the

flake through the bulge to the

anchor ledge. The second pitch

is a 5 bolt 5.7 to an anchor on the

left that can be run into the 1st

pitch

12.The Next Generation 5.11+ ** (f/tr RR)

From the Appetite anchor, rap

down and clip the single bolt to

the left of Appetite.

13. Monkey Business 5.12+** (f/tr CR)

This test piece has not been

repeated since a key hold broke

off near the top.

Attitude Area

Attitude Area / Lizard Fuck Ledge

A steep 4th class trail up the gully

at the left of lizard fuck ledge

takes you to the top of the wall.

20. Let’s Get Rocked 5.9 (f/a JS f/tr CR)

This very cool route involves

stemming and jamming in an airy

and exposed position. (Chossy

and lots of rope drag. KR)

21. Bad Attitude 5.12*** (f/tr CR)

Start with the thin sequential

Boover Manoeuver a few meters

to the right of Gappage. At the

second ledge it crosses Gappage

and fi nish up the sustained face.

22. Gappage 5.10d** (f/a JS f/tr CR)

Start in the center of the steep

face. Climb the bouldery bolted

face to the ledge. Continue up the

face above the second ledge then

right to the steep hand crack and

jam your way to the top. Requires

gear to 3inch.

23. Major Attitude 5.11***(f/tr CR)

This long obvious route is one of

the first climbs attempted in the

early 90s. 3 start choices lead

to the overhanging upper crack.

Gear to 4 inch

24. Spirit Creature 5.11 ***(f/a KR)

Climbs the leaning arête feature

left of Major Attitude. Thin

technical climbing with an

immediate balancey crux and

a bouldery finish. Final crux

can be avoided by moving into

the overhanging finish of Major

Attitude.

Hig’s Zone

25. Voyager 5.8 (f/a RR)

From Lizard Ledge go left along

the narrow ramp to a 2 bolt

anchor. Climb the right side of

the Higzown Tower.

26. Prime Directive 5.10b***(f/a CAD)

Start behind the arbutus tree with

some balancey moves and finish

up the center of the face with

some powerful moves. Very fun!

27. Gimme A Rête 5.8*** (f/a RR)

Starts just left of the arbutus tree.

Climb up to the ledge then left

onto the arête. It gets airy at the

top.

The Frayed End

29. Whatever Pal 5.9 (f/tr CR)

This is an awesome route! It has all kinds of interesting climbing in it and though you could easily veer off route at a few spots, the

natural direct line is the best. There is also a traverse to the right towards the end to finish on Whatever.

30. Tweeky Face 5.10d *** (f/tr CR f/l CAD)

The face to the left of Whatever Pal. Boulder up to the bolt then move right to a well-protected,

sustained sequence of small holds and long reaches. Finish up the steep face left of Whatever Pal.

30a. Spark It Up 5.11 * (f/tr CR)

Starts the same as Tweeky Face. Head straight up the slightly overhanging Thin and sequential

face climbing. 7 bolts.

31. Roll Another 5.12 * (f/tr CR)

This test piece is a gymnastic Higgyland

gem. Once you gain the ledge, move left and climb the face to join the Haunting anchors.

32. The Haunting 5.11+

To the left of Roll Another, hard face leads to an overhanging crux, and a big THANK GOD

jug. Move right to finish at Roll Another anchor.

33. Where The Girls Are Pretty 5.10d*** (f/a CR)

The original line takes the cool horizontal break to the right. The first 6 meters are cruxy. Alternate start is a bouldery straight up version. Finish to the anchors at the top on the right.

34. Paradise City 5.12+**** (f/tr CR f/l CAD)

Bolted by Colin Dionne in 2002, this is a contender for one of the best lines at Higgy Land. A hard start leads to sustained, pumpy

climbing.

35. Falling Up 5.12b ***(f/a KR)

Powerful climbing with a cryptic,

technical, crux. Starts just right

of the big roof.

36. Frayed Ends Of Insanity 5.11d ****

(f/tr CR f/l. CAD)

A hard start leads to quality sustained climbing with a bold finish.

Frayed End~Pepsi Wall

The Frayed End

A 4th class trail to the top of the wall can be found to the left of the Pepsi Wall. Head out to the

main Sunshine Coast Trail and hike up hill for 20 m, find a faint trail on the right that heads back

towards Rippin’ to a ledge. Head left towards Exposed and find the steep steps in the corner on the right, climb up this to the top of the wall above Rippin’.

37. Skeletons of Society 5.11d **** (f/tr CR f/l CAD)

One of the most elegant routes at the crag. Steep, hard, sustained climbing. Bolts are necessarily

spaced far apart, If possible stick clip the first bolt.

38. Skippin’ 5.11b(f/tr CR)

A direct line up the steep face to the right of Rippin’. Sequential and sustained at the bottom and easier at the top.

39. Rippin’ 5.11b ** (f/tr CR)

This is a very popular route. Climb through a steep pumpy roof to a ledge and finish straight

up past 2 bolts. Or for an easier finish at the far right on Skippin.

40. Gluein’ 5.11b(f/tr CR)

A surprisingly dynamic climb. Move up to a small stance to the left of Rippin’, into some hand

jamming, dynamic face to the left of the ledge. Finish the same as Rippin’.

41. Decomposed 5.10b (f/tr CR)

Very cool little top rope problem that doesn’t get enough love.