Eldred Valley Rock
Eldred History
Rock climbing has quietly prospered in the Powell River region since the early 1980's, largely uninfluenced by the surging popularity of the sport all over North America. Development of the region’s many cragging areas was spear-headed by a small group of local enthusiasts who rarely felt the need to stray far from “their crags”, and never felt the need to” let the cat out of the bag.” In the beginning there was really nothing to let out. Although the first technical forays onto the rock in this region may have historical significance, it seemed, even then, that it would lead to something much larger.
Something much larger was discovered during the early 1980’s, right in the back yard. Local climbers caught wind of stupendous rock walls behind “Goat Lake” from the loggers and salvage crews working there. one of the local climbers landed a job loading shake blocks onto semi-trailers deep in the valley, driving daily through the heart of this incredible vale . The staggering potential was immediately apparent.... over whelming. Here stood walls on par in size and scope with North Americas most revered...Half Dome...El Capitan ... and all right here in Powell River.
The first ascent of “Psychopath” in 1988 broke through something of a psychological barrier. These walls were approachable, despite their imposing appearances. Yet “Psyche Slab” is only a third of the size of other more prominent walls in the Eldred..
By 1992 locals had become experienced enough and familiar enough with the Eldreds' topography and access (and the unique problems these presented) to explore more of its vast potential.
The incredible walls had gradually taken on characteristic names that the locals identified them by...”Psyche Slab”; ”Carag-dur”; “Caradhras”; “Silky Slab”; “Amon Rudh”; “Mt. Mammary” (and the cleavage); “The West Main Buttress”; and the valleys most dominating, “the West Main Wall”; or “the Mainer “ for short. These are the names that inspired locals and motivated them...drove them to excel.
In 1992 Colin Dionne and Rob Richards made the first exploratory probe onto the enormous “West Main Wall”. Rising in huge, sweeping slabs and jutting overhangs, “the Mainer” is a mile wide and nearly 900m tall. Any wall that approaches the size of El Cap is going to be a serious undertaking. For a pair of local climbers without a single grade VI ascent to their credit, it may as well have been El Cap.
Undaunted, they set up a camp on the spur road below the wall, and began fixing ropes on a stunning line of continuous cracks in dihedrals up the center of the massive “Mainer” . Dionne and Richards called the route “The Mainline”, ( VI,5.11-,A4), Finished in 1993. Half of the routes 18 pitches went free, the aid pitches were intricate and spectacular, and they placed only 20 bolts, by hand. It was a classic in every sense of the word. If it was in Yosemite, or Squamish, wall climbers would’ve bagged it decades earlier. Yet it wasn’t; it was hidden in the Eldred. Despite persistent rumours of a huge grade VI backcountry wall route somewhere behind Powell River, “The Mainline” is still unrepeated.