Eldred Valley Rock
4) The Mainline VI 5.11-A4 (Colin Dionne, Rob Richards 1993)
The Mainer is a mile wide and nearly 3000 feet (900m) tall. Any wall that approaches the size of El Cap is going to be a serious undertaking. At the time this book was written there has been no second ascent, therefore any party attempting it should take a bolting kit.(p1) Climb the easy left facing corner to a belay ledge. Gear belay, 5.7 (p2) Continue up the left facing corner to a sloping belay. Gear and 1 bolt anchor 5.10. (p3) The corner becomes steeper and the crack thinner, work your way up to a 3 bolt belay. 5.9, A3 (p4) Aid up past some loosness using a bolt and bathooks, continue up the arch to the belay. A2 (p5) Head up and right across the slabs to a shallow left facing dihedral, belay at the top of the dihedral. 5.10 (p6) Free climb to an A1 finger crack, belay at the sign. 5.10, A1 (p7) The relentless Pitch!! Aid up the seam to a large horizontal break below the Arch of Time. 5.10, A4+ (p8) The Arch of time! This 40 foot roof split by a seam is the focal point of the route. A3+ (p9) Continue up the seam onto some unprotected slab past a bushy ledge to a belay/ bivi ledge. 5.10+ NOTE: This is the bottom of the long haul, (p10) Head up and left following a groove to a belay stance. 5.8 (p11) Continue up the easy unprotected slabs to the base of the lower headwall, tension traverse to the left to a small bushy stance. 5.9, A0 (p12) Continue traversing left across the slabs to the left end of the upper headwall, “no real pro” 5.10 (p13) Head up and right on a ramp into the splitter crack above the lower headwall. 5.9+ (p14) Continue up the crack to the base of the upper headwall, tension traverse right and climb up to a stance above a water runnel. 5.9, A0
(p15) Move the belay right along the ledge to the top of a corner. 5.3 NOTE: This is the top of the long haul wall, the top of the 9th is several hundred feet below. (p16) Climb dthe steep featureless rock past 2 aid bolts, a dramatic pendulum left gets you to a dirt filled crack. Head up to the tree-bolt belay. 5.11 A3 (p17) Aid out right along the bottom of a roof, past the dreaded Shelob’s Lair to a seam that takes you through the bulging headwall. A3 (p18) Finish this spectacular route with a beautiful dihedral to a huge cypress tree with a lost arrow in it. 5.10.
Decent: Hike up to the summit and head left toward the main gully between the Backwall and the Mainer. Descend the gulley to the base of Itsy Bitsy Spider, connect with the Freeworld trail and descend the Carag-Dur trail back to the CAD Memorial Camp.
Gear: 2- 60m ropes, power drill or hand drill kit with bolts and hangers hooks, various copperheads, various leepers, 6 small 6 medium 6 large (2in) angles, bugaboos, 2 sets friends + double half sizes, 1 set camalots, 2 sets walnuts, 1 set slider nuts, 2 sets tricams, triple set RP’s, many biners and runners, portaledge and haul gear,