Eldred Valley Rock
Eldred Valley Bouldering
B- Branch Boulders:
Between the 33 mile marker and the pull out for camp at 34 mile, you will find this obvious cluster of boulders. B-Branch access road, which veers right and up-hill when coming up Goat Main towards camp, is an access road that brings you to the beginning of the Emma Lake trail. Unfortunately, the Static Cling boulder has been spray painted in blue with the words B BRANCH and a large arrow. You can't miss it.
Profile - The most thoroughly developed cluster in the Valley, most obvious lines have been scrubbed, though some projects still stand and new problems could be found. This area contains some of the Eldred's first problems, put up on the Static Cling and Dog Day boulders. Many problems involve early powerful moves, though all in all the style is varied and exciting. The terrain here is mostly flat which means safe landings and easy navigation. Once burried in the forest, some boulders are now exposed by the power lines which allows for some quick drying and moss-free problems.
Communication Eater:
Located a few meters below the parking pull out on B Branch and across the ditch, it is listed here as seperate because it does not connect to the B Branch trail loop directly.
▀ 1. Sack Blabbath (V1) Use a large right crimp and a left on a crimp side pull to finish on easier slab moves.
▀ 2. Communication Eater (V2)* A tricky start with a left hand on a high sloping pinch. Move into the obvious rail-like features. Trends more right than photo suggests.
▀ 3. Doobie Sloth (V6)*** Left on a side pull under the over hang, right on the good rail. Go left. Don't forget to 'PSSSAT!"
▀ There are two projects with the same start, one throwing straight up to the sloping shelf, and one harder project attempting to go right through the sloping arete.
Kevan Robitaille before the first ascent of Doobie Sloth (V6)
B-Branch Boulder
Located right at the base of the B-Branch turn off, and conveniently painted. the bouldering trail loop starts right behind this boulder.
▀ 1. Vanilla Icing (V0-)** One of the original problems in the valley, the well featured wall is also used as the downclimb to the next two problems.
▀ 2. Surrounded By Lesbians (V2)* This interestingly featured problem starts seated, left hand side pulling low on the edge of the disc, right on a slopey hold with a heel on.
▀ 3. Static Cling (V4)*** Start on good holds just above right of the slab. A key sequence unlocks the overhang. This was the first V4 in the valley, and despite being recently spray painted and grungy looking, is a fun and classic problem.
▀ 4. Third Eye Opener (V5/6)*** Start with your left hand on a small edge near shoulder height in the middle of the boulder, with your right hand low on the sloping rail. Slap up then aim for the edge out right.
▀ Project - Start as per above, but move left on small crimps to the lip.
▀ 5. LifeStyle Choice (V2)* Establish on the buldge with positve hand holds and tricky feet. Throw for the big ledge, and continue up the easy yet intimidating slab for a high top out. Slab may need a scrubbing. Can avoid slab by traversing into next problem for a good variation.
▀ 6. Sexy Skesis (V2/3)* Same start as above, but instead of going to the ledge, move up and right (sequencial), then traverse to top out on the far right horn. Fun!
▀ 7. The Dark Crystal (V4)** This short and powerful problem starts with a left hand on the large triangular quartz crystal, and a right hand on a good undercling. After finding the feet, make a big move out right. Follow the arete to top out directly above where you started.
▀ 8. Gelflings (V1) Start mega-low with a heel far down on the arete, and hands matched on good holds also on the arete. Traverse until you can rock over onto the slab.
▀ 9. Gelflings Essence (V3)* A better extension of the above problem. Instead of topping out onto the slab, continue traversing the arete and move round the large horn.
The Tank Boulder:
The giant, obvious split boulder at the top of the trail.
▀ 10. Inverted Academics (V6)*** From low on the 45 degree spine, work your way up to the end of the feature. Top out above this hold with a rad sequence. A far right top out using the second jug is currently a project. The first jug/horn flexes slightly, and though it seems to be ok, be very cautious as your entire body weight is placed on this hold.
▀ 11. Low Card (V1) This short little problem starts seated, with a right heel, and a left hand on a positive edge. Up to the corner for a mantle finish.
▀ 12. The Thin Grey Line (V5/4)** Establish high on the slopey buldge and make a strong move into the crimpy seam.
▀ 13. Banana Slab (V2+)* Match high on what was once a banana shaped hold (before it broke) and high step onto the slab (crux). Traverse across on positive holds. Cleaner than it looks.
▀ Projects: P1-(Start on the flat shelf, find a way up the triangular overhang. P2-Bulge Project (Start low on a horn and slap up the crystaly bulge. P3-Inverted Arete (same as Inverted Academics, but instead of finishing using the crimps, continue to the jug and straight up the arete.
▀ 14. Cheater (V2)** Using the other boulder to establish your feet, then immediately transfer to lay back the arete (with feet now on the same boulder as your hands).
▀ 15. Cheater Low (V3)** SDS to the above problem. Obvious (or is it?) hint: use your legs.
▀ 16. Savage Cling (V4)*** Shorter climbers pad stack or jump to match on the low sloping rail. Technical foot work may (will) prove furstrating.
▀ 17. Brydon's Problem (V?) On the far right of the boulder, match on a large shelf. Move up and left if you have the reach.
▀ 18. Log Jam (V1)* Located behind the Open Canvas boulder, this lone boulder / problem was barely spared when the power lines went in. Left on an edge or side pull mid height, right on an incut rail on the far right. Note: large foot hold knob is loose.
▀ 19. Prince (V2)** Establish on the second lowest rail then move up through obvious features. The classic block hold shown in photos broke. Top out rocking over left or alternatively traverse the lip and walk out right.
▀ 20. Open Canvas (V3)*** Starts same as above, but move right and throw to the triangular bulge in the centre of the boulder. Now move left using the large flake/side pull, and top out as per Prince.
▀ 21. The Problem Formerly Known as Prince (V4)*** Same as above, but instead of exiting to the left, exit straight up using crimps on the face.
Powerline Cluster: Much easier to find now that they're not hidden in the forest, though still somewhat hidden, there are two approaches. From the Ladron boulder, when facing that problem, there is a trail to the right that exits the woods and onto the power line service road. It grows over with ferns and shrubs quickly, and comes out into a young alder grove. Walk up the road, and about 5 meters before the tower is a slightly landscaped enbankment that leads up a ridge of boulders. You'll be able to see the above boulders. Or, from Goat Lake Main, hike up the sandy embankment not far from the Dog Day Boulder and into the power line access road. A thin trail exists through the young alders.
▀ 29. Colin's Crack (V2)** A fun layback that uses both boulders and tackles the overhang. Start as far back in the cave as you can. Worth seeking out.
▀ 30. PCP, Luke? (V2) Use a low sidepull and head for a better hold.
▀ Projects: P1-Triangle Squeeze (A powerful start would be possible on the triangular shaped boulder, either from the left or right then bear hug up. Has been played on but not given real effort) * P2 - Face Direct (A better problem up the tall face that starts the same as #30 is possible. Trend left from the good hold. The stump below creates a hazard, and either needs to be removed or the problem could be attempted with a few pads.)
Dog Day Boulder:
This is the large obvious boulder on the right side of the road as you drive up towards the climbers camp.
▀ 25. Cesamet Rails (V2)** A steep traverse on cool jug features, the FA was done in hiking boots, in the snow, uphill both ways.
▀ 26. A Dog Named Boo (V2)*** The classic highball up the flake. Crux up high... though it may be more mental than physical.
▀ 27. Ataraxia (V7?)*** Start this incredible line by underclinging on the far left of the giant flake. Traverse right, execute a tricky move and connect into the thin seam. Note: This is a project as of publishing, though all the moves have been done.
▀ 28. In The Shadow of The Giants (V?)*** Not in photo. Start on the jug on the arete and work into the steep overhang. Strenuous moves lead into the micro crack and up the roof. Its been said this problem was climbed in the early days of Eldred development by Colin and or Rob. If so, it will have been the hardest ascent in the Valley to date. This is the gem and testpiece of the area, and still awaits a repeat.
▀ Project: Start on the jug of the arete/bulge and try to gain the seam.
▀ The Princess (V5)** (not drawn on) Established after the images for this section were finished, this problem starts just like the previous ones, but stays at mid-height after the triangle-horn, traversing the thin seam to exit at the far right.
▀ 22. Finally Free (V3/2)*** Match low on the positive vertical rail and head through perfect crimps.
▀ 23. Ladrón (V4)*** This quality problem
starts to the far right on obvious edges and an
arete. Exit straight up the prow. A key foot hold
has broken into a smaller piece, possibly
making the grade stiff.
▀ 24. Accidental Haircut (V0) On the far left of the cracked, well featured slab.
